Giovanna and Stefano’s “Pācina” Rosso was first produced in 1987, and it has long eschewed the Chianti Colli Senesi designation to which it would hypothetically be entitled. Vines range from 10 to 40 years of age, and are planted in the classic porous “tufo di Siena” limestone of the zone, amounting to a final blend of 95% Sangiovese with 5% Ciliegiolo and Canaiolo. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation take place in large cement tanks with no interference, and the wine spends three years in a combination of large Slavonian casks, old 500-liter barrels, and cement, with no fining or filtering before bottling and a maximum of 20 milligrams per liter of sulfur added during the aging. Dark, boisterous fruit combines seamlessly with a soaring acidity ever so slightly treble-boosted by immaculately tasteful volatility, and the tannins possess a scrumptious sizzle.